Characterization of <i>Cistus </i>× <i>incanus</i> L. and <i>Cistus ladanifer</i> L. Extracts as Potential Multifunctional Antioxidant Ingredients for Skin Protecting Cosmetics

Skin is constantly exposed to harmful environmental factors, causing photo-oxidative stress in cells and leading to the development of health and aesthetic problems. Multifunctional ingredients of everyday skincare products, possessing antioxidant, UV-protecting, anti-hyperpigmentation, and skin can...

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Main Authors: Katarzyna Gaweł-Bęben (Author), Wirginia Kukula-Koch (Author), Uliana Hoian (Author), Marcin Czop (Author)
Format: Book
Published: MDPI AG, 2020-03-01T00:00:00Z.
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Summary:Skin is constantly exposed to harmful environmental factors, causing photo-oxidative stress in cells and leading to the development of health and aesthetic problems. Multifunctional ingredients of everyday skincare products, possessing antioxidant, UV-protecting, anti-hyperpigmentation, and skin cancer-preventing properties are in high demand. Due to the high content of polyphenolic compounds <i>Cistus </i>×<i> incanus</i> L. and <i>Cistus ladanifer</i> L. are potentially interesting sources of cosmetic ingredients with multiple skin protecting functions. In this study eight extracts from dried <i>C. incanus</i> and <i>C. ladanifer</i>—aerial parts were prepared using 60% (<i>v</i>/<i>v</i>) or 100% (<i>v</i>/<i>v</i>) methanol, on a magnetic stirrer or in Soxhlet apparatus, and compared for their content of phytochemicals and properties important for the skin protection. Extracts from <i>C. incanus</i> prepared in 60% (<i>v</i>/<i>v</i>) methanol contained the highest amount of polyphenolic compounds (331.82−347.27 mg GAE/g DW) and showed the most significant antioxidant activity (IC<sub>50</sub> = 3.81−4.05 µg/mL). <i>C. incanus</i> extracts were also effective tyrosinase inhibitors (30−70% inhibition at 100 µg/mL). Statistical correlation analysis revealed that epicatechin, epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG), and myricitrin may be responsible for the antioxidant and tyrosinase inhibitory potential of <i>C. incanus</i> extracts. All analyzed extracts were cytotoxic for human melanoma cells A375 (IC<sub>50 </sub>= 57.80−199.01 µg/mL), with <i>C. incanus</i> extract prepared in 100% (<i>v</i>/<i>v</i>) methanol using Soxhlet extraction being the most effective. The extracts did not significantly impair the growth of noncancerous human keratinocytes HaCaT. <i>C. incanus</i> and C<i>. ladanifer</i> extracts possess also natural sun protecting activity (SPF 3.42−3.77 at 100 µg/mL), enhancing their anti-hyperpigmentation and anti-melanoma potential.
Item Description:2076-3921
10.3390/antiox9030202