Ex Vivo and In Vivo Assessment of the Penetration of Topically Applied Anthocyanins Utilizing ATR-FTIR/PLS Regression Models and HPLC-PDA-MS
Anthocyanins are natural colorants with antioxidant properties, shown to inhibit photoaging reactions and reduce symptoms of some skin diseases. However, little is known about their penetration through the stratum corneum, a prerequisite for bioactivity. The aim was to investigate anthocyanin penetr...
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| Main Authors: | , , , |
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| Format: | Book |
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MDPI AG,
2020-06-01T00:00:00Z.
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| Online Access: | Connect to this object online. |
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| Summary: | Anthocyanins are natural colorants with antioxidant properties, shown to inhibit photoaging reactions and reduce symptoms of some skin diseases. However, little is known about their penetration through the stratum corneum, a prerequisite for bioactivity. The aim was to investigate anthocyanin penetration from lipophilic cosmetic formulations through the skin using a porcine ear model and human volunteers. ATR-FTIR/PLS regression and HPLC-PDA-MS were used to analyze anthocyanin permeation through the stratum corneum. Penetration of all anthocyanins was evident and correlated with molecular weight and hydrophilicity. Lower-molecular-weight (MW) anthocyanins from elderberry (449-581 Da) were more permeable within the skin in both ex vivo and in vivo models (K<sub>p</sub> = 2.3-2.4 × 10<sup>−4</sup> cm h<sup>−1</sup>) than the larger anthocyanins (933-1019 Da) from red radish (K<sub>p</sub> = 2.0-2.1 × 10<sup>−4</sup> cm h<sup>−1</sup>). Elderberry and red radish anthocyanins were found at all levels of the stratum corneum and at depths for activity as bioactive ingredients for skin health. |
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| Item Description: | 10.3390/antiox9060486 2076-3921 |